Cogne Conditions Jan 2012

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Great few days climbing with Olly who was fresh off the blocks, strong and keen. We got stuck into a few classics including Repentance, Lau Bij and for a bit of variety, some mountain action in Chamonix with Cascade du Cosmiques. Shame about the crux pitch of CDC – the chockstone was sporting a long narrow fin of unstable ice which wasn’t safe to climb around – the first time Ive ever had to turn around on this route which usually goes with some interesting mixed when its lacking ice. Cogne was in pretty good shape overall though, especially considering the conditions in some other parts of the Alps. We changed plans from Kandersteg to Simplon to here, after hearing about zero ice and huge wads of snow, but Cogne didn’t fail. Most of the classics were seeing traffic including Cascade Lillaz, Lillaz gully, Monday money, Flash estivo, Fiamma de Money, Cold Couloir, Candelabro Del Cayote, Chandelle L, Il Tutto Relativo, Patri etc. Well worth a visit just now.

Cogne and Monte Mecrone

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Awesome few days exploring Italy with Jim – kicking off with Erfaulet in Cogne which was in great shape last week. Shortly before I left the UK for this trip a friend Steve emailed with some beta for a route he’d done over xmas – Il Canalino on Monte Mecrone near Biella. Heard of it? We’ll I hadn’t but it sounded too good to be true – well bolted M6 gully, 250m long finishing on a lovely summit, with the most breathtaking backdrop over the Italian plains…

Longhope Lecture – Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner

Dave and Andy at the base of the Longhope on Orkney – Lukaz Warzecha.

A quick heads up about this – promises to be an excellent evening so get yourself a ticket!

GORE-TEX® products is sponsoring Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner’s upcoming lecture at the Royal Geographical Society in London.

The lecture, which talks place on the 8th February, is about their first free ascent of the Longhope route on St John’s Head last year. The lecture will be followed by a screening of Paul Diffley (Hot Aches Productions) Longhope Film, which won the people’s choice award at Kendal. This is a link to the trailer for the film: http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/rgslonghopenight.html

Tickets cost £12 and can be bought through Dave’s website http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/rgslonghopenight.html

Ski Touring – Last Few Places

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We still have good availability for Private Ski Guiding and scheduled tours for ready made groups – these are the final places on various scheduled ski tours this season:

Haute Ubaye Powder Touring : 29th Jan – 3rd Feb : 1 Place

Andorra – Ax Backcountry : 27th Feb – 3rd Mar : 3 Places

Bernese Oberland Ski Tour : 8th – 13th April : 4 Places

Gran Paradiso Ski Tour : 22nd – 27th April : 1 Place

If you’re interested, then drop us a line!

 

Lakes Winter Action

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Some pics from a recent trip to the Lakes. Martin Cooper, Jonny Morgan, Nick Wallis, Nick Williams and myself had 3 days visiting Gable, Scafell/Pikes Crag and Bowfell. With good early season mixed conds we managed ascents of Jabberwock (with some good airtime!), first ascent of a nice route on pikes crag, an attempt on Botterills Slab, Bowfell Buttress classic route and FWA of Rubicon Groove on Bowfell Buttress. Other teams out made impressive FWA’s of Angel of Mercy, a new route on BB, action on Cambridge crags and lots more activity throughout the Lakes – so a great weekend on the hill. Most impressively, we managed by the skin of our teeth to not write off my car on Honister pass when Jonny slipped off the bonnet and my chains snapped… Thanks to the Honister quarry workers who towed us away from the brink!

Dear Santa…

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Record snowfalls in the Alps

Well we had a dry autumn, but the last two weeks has more than made up for that – with 3.25m of snowfall at the Grands Montets and counting…  Early season powder conditions understandably have been excellent, though not with out a significant number of days of high avalanche risk to contend with.

Thank’s to Bairdy for the pic - from the British Mountain Guides CPD day in Les Houches this weekend - appropriately enough, it was about managing avalanche risk!  To quote - ”getting a bunch of guides to slow down for a photo is not easy!”

Powder skiing in Les Houches this weekend

A Memorable Year On The Hill

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A big thanks to all who’ve joined us on the hill this year, so here are a few pics to bring back some memories (or is it best to block them out… he he) – including one or two from my own personal trips as well. It’s been a great year and good to see lots of familiar faces, old friends and a bunch of new clients too – we hope you had as much fun as we did (although it has been good putting the feet up and going mountain biking this autumn – batteries are now charged again!) Guiding highlights for me,  for pure adventure and engagement, had to be Senja in Arctic Norway with David H and my April trip to Chamonix with Gerry. Senja is a dream venue with a mixture of icefalls and huge gully lines, all with a very Scottish feel but almost an alpine scale, and yes we had it to ourselves! Not an easy trip – some rough weather, no guidebooks and a real sense of isolation, but very rewarding – I’ll be back for 2 weeks this coming season, so watch this space for some pics. Gerrys trip was a special 40th treat to himself – some might call it a midlife crisis but I think Gerry enjoyed most of it, so it probably doesn’t count!  Fortunately, 2 weeks of sun got us up routes on the Tacul, Grand Cap, most of the Rouse Carrington, and The Richard Cranium Memorial route on the Droites… and a 14 hour bender in Chamonix.

Al spent a lot of his year on skis as usual – so some nice ski pics to follow soon!

2012 Ski Gear Advice

The ski season’s nearly upon us and the kids don’t really need shoes - well, not as much as I need a pair of Trab Volare’s anyway – so here’s the latest round up of all things new and shiny in ski mountaineering.  Thanks to Andy Hall over at Backcountry UK for helping out with advice and ski kit to test.

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LATEST TRENDS
There’s no end in sight yet – skis are still getting fatter!  In response to this, several manufacturers of touring kit are coming out with new lightweight,  wide bodied, high performance skis.  These are great pieces of kit, but more and more niche in terms of usage – ie backcountry soft snow skis, rather than all round touring skis, or one-ski-does-all all mountain skis etc.
So nowadays more than ever, you need to think very carefully what you are really going to be using them for – ie whether that new fat pair of superlight skis really is strong enough for lapping 2 million moguls at the Grands Montets, or perhaps better suited to skinning through the woods in search of untracked powder…  Likewise, new binding designs are appearing now that are also designed for touring on wider bodied skis.

NEW SKIS 2012

Pick of the crop – to my mind at least – is the new range of Trab backcountry touring skis.  The brand is now becoming well established in the UK thanks to Mountain Boot Company (who also import Scarpa and Grivel) but mainly due to the fact that Trab undisputedly make the best built, best performing lightweight skis money can buy…

My Trab Stelvio Lites continue to hold up well – now on their 3rd season and still skiing perfectly, without damage despite tons of abuse, which say it all really – so I’ll be using those for my big multi day tours again this season.  On the early season powder touring front, it’s a toss up between the good old Scott Crusairs which have been brilliant these last two seasons and lusting after a new pair of Trab Volare’s which look set to be this season’s ‘must have’ ski for deep snow backcountry touring.  Everyone I know who’s skied the Volare raves about them in all snow conditions and at under 3kg for a mighty 99mm underfoot, it’s very tempting!

For all mountain all rounders, both the Scott Mission and Scott Neo Aversion continue to be excellent choices - whereas for a more deep snow orientated ski, I’d look at the new Scott Venture and the new Dynastar Legend 94.

TOURING BINDINGS

No big changes here at Fritschi, who still have the Eagle and Freeride Pro dominating the market – for 80-90% of British ski tourers the Freeride pro is probably the best bet.

A word of warning about the Marker Tour TR binding that appeared last year – this is definitely one to avoid, as we’ve seen several breakages of the plastic parts as soon as it hit the snow and the design is also poor and inefficient in our experience for real touring.

The biggest changes this season are at Dynafit, who are bringing out the new Radical series - the Radical ST is an updated version of the Vertical binding, with an easier boot step in system and improved climbing stand, whereas the Radical FT is a new binding designed specifically for skis over 100mm underfoot.  It shares the same improved step in and climbing stand features as the ST, but has a wider hole drilling pattern to mount securely onto wider bodied skis.

Still no sign of the much vaunted Trab touring binding, which according to Daniella at Trab has now been put back to next year in order to ’make sure it is perfect!’

BOOTS

The freeride boot category continues to expand, with big mainstream manufacturers like Salomon and Technica getting in on the act – this season they are offering entry level freeride boots, as well as better quality Pebax shelled boots like the Salomon Quest and Tecnica Cochise.

The new Dynafit Titan looks a very good slim fitting boot, as does the lightweight mid volume Scarpa Hurricane and for a wider fitting boot, look at the Garmont Delerium.

On the touring boot front, there are various notable changes this season:

First off, some good news about the popular Scarpa Maestrale boot – this season they’ve changed the buckle attachment system from allen key bolts (which came undone), to rivets (which won’t come undone!) – so if you are thinking of getting a pair, just make sure you are buying 2011-12 stock – ie check the buckles are held on with rivets not bolts.

Black Diamond have also sorted out the cold boot issues that plague there freeride boots on the Black Diamond Quadrant touring boot – they’ve added more volume to the shell, particularly around the toe box, which allows a much thicker and warmer liner.  This is now a great mid flex touring boot, with a precise 4 buckle design as well as an excellent walk mode.

If you are after something with maximum stiffness on the descents, then look at either the Scarpa Mobe or Garmont Radium - these are a little heavier, but more supportive and still dynafit compatible.

TRANSCEIVERS

The Arva Link and Mammut Pulse are now well established as the best top-of-the-range transceivers on the market.  Both use the same internal analogue and digital and W-Link technology, so it’s just a case of getting your hands on each one and deciding which you prefer.

The best mid market transceiver is probably the Arva 3 Axes, which is a 3 antenna design running on dual analogue/digital technology – the unit has a revamped casing and layout this season too.

For those on more of a budget the new DTS  Tracker 2 has overcome a few teething troubles and is in the shops now, but the new Mammut Element sits along side it as an equally good, easy to use modern 3 antenna digital design.

CLOTHING

I’ve been using a lot of shiny new Art’teryx kit over the last year and it’s all been brilliant!  Stand out pieces for skiing and touring include:

  • Arcteryx Fision SL Jacket – wore this all the time last season in bad weather, took it on several cold touring weeks, wore it ice climbing, Greenland Expedition etc etc – it’s an insualted goretex shell jacket with pit zips - so works well as a warm layer and a shell in cold conditions, but saving the weight of carrying two seperate garments.
  • Gamma SK Pant - softshell ski touring pant - they fit just great, have pockets in all the right places, good boot draw cord and mine are in a lightish colour that doesn’t show the dirt!
  • Atom LT Jacket – lightly insulated wind resistant jacket – super light weight, warm-but-not-too-warm and windproof on the way down – what more would you need!
  • Atom SV Hoody – one of these of course – same as above but with warmer insulation and a hood – makes a great spare layer for when it turns nasty.
  • Alpha FL Jacket – super light, minimalist shell jacket – made from the excellent new Gore Active Shell fabric.
  • Alpha SV Glove - ultimate ski touring gloves – just don’t look at the price tag!