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I’ve been enjoying a spell of work in the Peak District, Pembroke and the Wye valley with Nik, Sim and Al. Some strong winds and moody skies set the tone in Pembroke but we managed to duck and dive between the odd shower and get some good stuff done including the excellent Heart of Darkness/New Morning, Tactitian, Straight Gate a few other classics around St Govans/Travellan. Cheers for a good trip guys!
Recently back from a brilliant 8 days work in North Wales Rock Climbing with Alastair and Dan. Awesome sunny weather but some strong winds and big seas made for a memorable trip!
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Alastairs trip started at Gogarth around Castle Helen and Wen Slab, then we chased the weather down to Pembroke where we hardly saw another soul on crags like Mother Careys and St Govans unbelievably! Dans trip started on the Cromlech where we enjoyed Left Wall and the Gates in blazing sunshine, then we went for some shade to 10 degress North on the Mot, and rounded things off the next day with Mousetrap at Gogarth. Great trip cheers guys!Rich
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It’s been a great spring for rock climbing in the UK – April was amazing and although it’s been a bit chilly in May there’s still been some good sport, between the wind and snow… mad weather! I’ve been working all over the UK and here are a few highlights: top days at Gogarth and Millstone Edge with Dan including some real classics eg The Strand and Time for Tea, a great day at Gimmer Crag in the Lakes with Matt, Peak District classics on Froggatt and Stanage with Nik, and the Old Man of Hoy – Sea Stack Climbing with Margaret just last week. Orkney saw its first May snow in over 35 years (according to locals): it was a real battle dealing with sandy rock, 6 degree temps and 2 fierce snow squalls right down to seas level. Climbing the Old Man is always an all round test of mountaineering as well as rock climbing skill – route finding, potentially tricky descent, exposed approach, and very remote – but this was just crazy! Good effort to Margaret!More pics to follow
The Old Man of Hoy - quite pokey a snowstorm!
Dead arm if you blow it Pete
Another quality day on the grit yesterday with Pete and Andy Benson, this time over on the Staffordshire moors at the west end of Peak District Rock Climbing country. A stiff cold wind gave us pretty good conditions so we did the classic circuit around the 2nd, 3rd and 4th Clouds, then headed over to Roaches Lower Tier (a bit green here but some dry stuff to go at) . The superb rock quality and stunning outlook make this one of the Peaks classic bouldering areas and well worth the drive from Sheffield. Raining here now so back to work!
Rich
Birchens Bouldering Circuit - Dave Musgrove on a V7
The weathers been pretty wild here in Sheffield, but we’ve had a few decent grit days in between the rain – not primo cold bouldering weather but good enough. Local friend Niall Grimes (who recently won the Banff Grand prize with Jerry Moffatt for ‘Revelations’ – Jerrys inspiring life story) has been beavering away on the new BMC Froggatt guide which includes some interesting bouldering circuits on each crag. So yesterday a big team headed out to the Peak District and that little known bouldering mecca – Birchen Edge – to try the circuit and check for sandbags! The sun shone, conditions were pretty good and we all had a top day working our way through the 28 problems, which ranged from V1 to V6 (Eng 5b – 6b). These included a few highballs near the finish - just when the arms were tired and the light was fading… good work Grimer! Birchen is better known as a beginners crag but the forthcoming guide should help put it firmly on the bouldering map for mid grade operators. Cheers to Dave Hollinger for the pics.
Rich
Just a quick pic sent over by Ian who’s been guiding Tony O’Brien for some North Wales Rock Climbing this week, enjoying some good summer rock climbing.
Tony O'Brien climbing in Cwm Idwal, North Wales this week.
The Priest. E1
Just back from an amazing trip to Scotland Rock Climbing: Uninhabited islands – blue skies and sunshine every day, again! This was my second trip to the uninhabited Hebridean island of Pabbay – the brilliant new Garry Latter guidebook providing enough temptation to get back up there for another dose. So 12 of us made the long haul from Sheffield, finally getting onto the island a day late after missing the ferry from Oban… (playing hacky-sack outside the terminal – missed the last call – doh, ah well got to sample the legendary Oban nightlife…). What can I say about Pabbay? If the weather gods are smiling its simply paradise: ego massaging grades, sensational positions, good pro and mega quality rock, all on your own desert island. Most of the classics had ascents up to E6 including the amazing Ship of Fools, Geomancer, The Bonxie, Child of the Sea, Herbrudean etc.
For adventure trad climbing, the British Isles are where its at.
Thanks to Arcteryx and DMM for keeping us well kitted out as usual.
Rich
Rich has been out in the Peak District Rock Climbing today, doing some crag safety and rock coaching for the BMC. Nothing unusual here you might think, except the ‘student’ was Olympic gold medallist Kelly Holmes – who recently decided to take up climbing! ITN News were also in attendance. Thanks to Alex Messenger at the BMC (www.alexmessenger.co.uk) for the following photos:
Kelly cranking it on the Grit (so that’s where my missing helmet’s gone!)
Hmm, not at all windy…
It’s never cold in Yorkshire - the sun’s shining!
Rich and 6 climbing mates are just back from a jolly to Scotland Rock Climbing in the Outer Hebrideas:
Sandray is a tiny uninhabited island off the southern tip of the Hebridean chain, accessed via private charter boat from Barra. It is less well known than it’s famous sisters Pabbay and Mingulay, but the climbing is equally good and the wildlife truly spectacular!
With 7 days of sunshine in a Robinson Crusoe setting, camping wild by a golden sandy beach, they enjoyed some brilliant sea cliff climbing, fishing, seals, dolphins, basking sharks, beer, hacky sack…
The islands make for a great all round holiday and this season has seen some of the best weather up there for years. Can’t wait to get back!
Andy Benson new routing on Easter Island Wall, Sandray
Just a few shots from our UK Alpine Skills Training Course run by Owen in North Wales this weekend. Good weather allowed for plenty of on the hill training and a broad range of alpine essentials were covered ready for summer trips ahead – good luck folks & don’t forget to keep an eye out here for alpine conditions reports, as our summer season starts next week (current conditions in the alps are – very snowy!)
Owen teaching the art of taking in coils (pic – Jane Toothill)
Practicing moving together on Gribin Ridge (pic – Jane Toothill)
